What to do in Pu Luong, Vietnam ? The ultimate guide

 

Pu Luong, a biodiversity treasure…

Pu Luong is a true jewel of biodiversity, offering a wide variety of habitats for both animal and plant species.

The reserve is home to over 1,000 different plant species, some of which are endemic to the region. The primary forests of the reserve contain impressive trees, some reaching over 50 meters in height. Rare species such as ironwood, Chinese pear, and Burmese teak can be found here, along with traditional medicinal plants like ginseng and honeysuckle.

As for animal species, Pu Luong Reserve is also incredibly rich. There are over 80 species of mammals, some of which are endangered, such as the giant muntjac and the slow loris. The clouded leopard, a rare feline species, is also present in the area. The reserve is a birdwatcher’s paradise, with over 500 different bird species recorded in the region.

The rivers and waterfalls of the reserve provide important habitats for many species of fish, amphibians, and reptiles. Wetlands are also a significant feature of the reserve, offering habitats for dragonflies, frogs, and salamanders.

 

 

The forest canopy of Pu Luong Nature Reserve. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet 

 

… maintained by ethnic minorities

While the Kinh (Viet) population has recently settled in the area, opening ecolodges and restaurants, the reserve is primarily inhabited by ethnic minorities, notably the Muong and especially the Thai. In fact, “Pu Luong” means “big mountain” in the Thai language.

The inhabitants of Pu Luong are mainly farmers and livestock breeders. They cultivate terraced rice and vegetables using traditional methods and raise livestock in pastures. The local communities are also known for their craftsmanship, particularly in textile and pottery production.

The presence of these local communities adds an important cultural dimension to the Pu Luong reserve. Visitors can discover traditional ways of life and participate in cultural activities, such as traditional dance and music. The villages in the region also offer insights into local architecture, with wooden and bamboo houses built according to local traditions.

It is important to note that the coexistence of these local communities with nature is fragile and can be threatened by environmental pressures and social changes. Efforts are being made to promote responsible tourism and sustainable development in the region, involving local communities in the management of the reserve and ensuring that their culture and traditions are respected. As you will notice during your walks, the reserve is very clean with very little litter, which is quite rare in Vietnam.

 

Thai woman working in the field during harvest season, Pu Luong. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

When to visit Pu Luong ?

Unlike other destinations in northern Vietnam (such as Sapa, Mu Cang Chai, or Hoang Su Phi), Pu Luong Nature Reserve has two rice harvests each year. These occur in late May-early June and in October.

Therefore, we recommend two periods for visiting:

From March to early June: Rice is planted in early March and harvested in early June.

From August to October: Rice is planted again during the summer (like in the mountains) and harvested in early October.

If you visit the reserve at the beginning of these periods, the rice fields will be green with young rice. Towards the end of the periods, as the rice matures, it turns yellow, creating beautiful layers of color in the fields.

If you visit during the summer, although it can be hot, Pu Luong maintains a comfortable temperature due to its location in a low limestone mountainous area, with many tropical forests and a sparse population.

Another tip: check the Vietnamese holiday calendar to avoid visiting during those times. This is a general tip for all tourist destinations (Halong, Ninh Binh, Hoi An, etc.). If possible, visit during the weekdays. You will enjoy the tranquility of the place.

 

Landscape in Pu Luong in april. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

How to get to Pu Luong ?

There are several options for getting to Pu Luong.

You can, of course, include Pu Luong in your custom itinerary. In this case, you will travel by private car with a driver and guide who will take you to Pu Luong from Hanoi, Mai Chau, or any other destination based on your pre-established itinerary with the agency.

You can also organize a multi-day excursion from Hanoi, including destinations like Mai Chau and Pu Luong. In this case, you will also travel by private car with an English-speaking tour guide.

These two options are the most comfortable but also the most expensive.

You can also organize your transfer from Hanoi in two ways:

The first option is to take a bus or a private car. There are regular buses departing from My Dinh Bus Station in Hanoi to the town of Mai Chau, which is located about 50 kilometers from the Pu Luong Reserve. From Mai Chau, you can take another bus or a taxi to get to Pu Luong. Private car trips are also possible and can be booked in advance as part of a tour. In this case, you will not have a guide with you, only the driver who will handle the transfer. But be aware: you will have to pay for the round trip of the car.

Depending on the weather and road conditions (especially within the reserve), the journey can take 4 to 5 hours from Hanoi.

The second option is to take a train to the city of Thanh Hoa, which is about 75 kilometers from the Pu Luong Reserve. From Thanh Hoa Station, you can take a bus or a taxi to reach the reserve. Trains regularly depart from Hanoi Station to Thanh Hoa Station. As you can see, this option is the most complicated…

 

Where to sleep in Pu Luong ?

Most accommodations are found in the villages of Ban Don and Ban Hieu, located in the southern part of the reserve. In Ban Don, you will find the most comfortable establishments. Here are a few good options:

Pu Luong Retreat : the oldest and most luxurious in the reserve. These are very comfortable bungalows. There is also a “homestay” section, where you will have a single bed separated from other beds by curtains, but still very comfortable ;

Inh La Home Pu Luong : situated a bit further down, this accommodation is of very high quality. Like Pu Luong Retreat, it has a homestay section and rooms (double rooms and more spacious “suites”). The view of the surroundings is superb.

 

Inh La Home from the sky, Pu Luong. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

For a more rustic but cozy and well-decorated option, we recommend Pu Luong Riverside Lodge. Lastly, you have several options for staying with local families. For example: homestay Tho Ha.

You can also stay in the village of Hieu (Ban Hieu), known for its beautiful and peaceful waterfall. Right by the water, you have Les Bains de Hieu. A bit higher up, there is also Pu Luong Mountain View Homestay, which, as the name suggests, offers an elevated view.

The lodges and homestays generally offer homemade local meals and cultural activities such as traditional dances and music performances.

 

 

What to do in Pu Luong ?

Enjoying the view from a stunning lodge

As mentioned earlier, Pu Luong has a few comfortable ecolodges that make for a great “staycation.” This is especially appealing for people living in Hanoi who want to escape the noise and pollution of the Vietnamese capital for a few days. In Pu Luong, you can breathe fresh air, listen to the sounds of nature, and enjoy the magnificent view from your accommodation!

 

Hiking and staying with local families

However, we also recommend – especially for travelers passing through – going on a hike in the reserve. If you choose a private tour, your French-speaking guide can be accompanied by a local guide who knows the reserve’s trails perfectly. If you are traveling on your own, you can book a tour with a local guide through your lodge/homestay. There are now several guides who speak English, so it’s entirely possible to have a wonderful immersive experience while getting the necessary information for a better understanding of local life. You can choose a day tour (several options available based on your preferences and physical condition) or a two-day tour. We recommend combining a night in a lodge with a night in a homestay to truly appreciate the daily life of the inhabitants. You will stay with a family in a traditional Thai stilt house.

 

Typical Thai stilt house, Pu Luong. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

For the more athletic, you can take on the challenge of conquering “Pu Luong,” the highest mountain in the reserve, with its summit reaching 1,700 meters above sea level. This is a 2-day trek, as it takes about six to eight hours to reach the summit in good weather. But it’s worth it when you can admire the exceptional landscape of mountains and forests while spotting stilt houses and terraced rice fields in the valley at the foot of the mountain. You will spend the night in a tent and descend the next day.

For this excursion, it is advisable to prepare in advance, either with the agency or with your accommodation.

 

Discover the water wheels

The water wheels are undoubtedly a distinctive feature of the Pu Luong Reserve. Made by locals for centuries, they allow irrigation of terraced rice fields that are too high above the river and provide water for daily activities. There are more than 100 water wheels in the Pu Luong area, built along streams and rivers. The wheels are usually made of wood and measure about 3 to 4 meters in diameter. They are powered by the flowing water in the streams and rivers, which makes them turn and irrigate the terraced rice fields upstream. Your guide will take you up close to these wheels during your tour.

 

Water wheels of Pu Luong. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet 

 

Take a boat ride on the Ma River

The Pu Luong Nature Reserve is traversed by the Ma River, a tributary of the Ma River, which flows into the South China Sea. The Ma River is an important water source for the local inhabitants of the Pu Luong region and is also used for irrigating the terraced rice fields. In addition to its practical use, the Ma River offers panoramic views of the beautiful surrounding area of Pu Luong, with its mountains, tropical forests, and traditional villages. During your stay, you will likely enjoy a peaceful boat ride on the river aboard a small sampan made of bamboo.

 

Boat ride on Ma river, Pu Luong. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

Swim in the waterfall of Hieu village

If you decide to stay in Hieu Village (Ban Hieu), you will be right next to this beautiful and peaceful waterfall. You can enjoy swimming there whenever you like. Alternatively, you can pass through the village during your hike, giving you a chance to cool off! So don’t forget to bring your swimsuits when you visit Pu Luong !

 

Relaxing in Hieu village. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

Explore Kho Muong cave

The nature reserve also has a few caves that can be visited during your hike. For example, there is Kho Muong Cave, nicknamed… the Bat Cave! Be aware that access requires a few meters of semi-climbing (nothing too difficult though) and the interior is quite dark. The cave is 2.5 kilometers long, and you can explore a few meters with your guide armed with a headlamp!

 

Inside Kho Muong cave. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet 

 

Visiting Pho Doan market

The Pho Doan market is located in Lung Niem commune and takes place twice a week: on Thursday and Saturday mornings. If you come to Pu Luong, we recommend planning your stay to include this market. Beyond the goods sold, the surrounding scenery is stunning. It’s a real favorite for all photographers who visit!

 

Pho Doan market and its surroundings. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

Visiting the weaving village of Lan

The Thai people are known for their embroidered clothing, and you can discover their craft in the village of Lan. The weavers of Lan use traditional looms to create unique and high-quality handcrafted products. Visitors can tour the village and see the weavers at work, creating scarves, bags, and other items using ancient weaving techniques passed down through generations. It’s a great place to pick up a souvenir for your loved ones (don’t forget to negotiate prices!).

 

Three generations of weavers in Lan village. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

Taste Co Lung duck and bamboo sticky rice

Finally, what would a stay be without sampling the local products? The duck from Co Lung commune is famous throughout northern Vietnam, and Vietnamese visitors never miss the chance to taste it, much like the goat from Ninh Binh. You will certainly see them live at the market and then… cooked in your lodge or homestay!

 

Ducks and chicken in Pu Luong. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

 

You can complement your duck dish with bamboo sticky rice, a staple in the daily meals of local residents. What makes it unique is perhaps the local seasoning of the large-grain rice combined with the bamboo used as a cooking vessel.

 

Now you have all the information to make the most of your stay in Pu Luong. For a complete eco-tourism experience, we recommend combining this visit with Mai Chau and Cuc Phuong National Park. Plan for a 5 to 6-day tour to fully enjoy this region.