Hoang Su Phi et ses rizières en terrasses : notre guide pour y séjourner

Panorama de Hoang Su Phi, Ha Giang, Vietnam

Trekking in Hoang Su Phi – the ultimate guide

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Hoang Su Phi district, in Ha Giang province near the Chinese border, is a mountainous region that remains largely untouched by tourism. Here, you’ll find some of the most breathtaking terraced rice fields in Vietnam, warm-hearted locals, and pristine nature.

Less accessible than Sapa or Mu Cang Chai, Hoang Su Phi district is still off the major tourist routes in Vietnam. It is the least touristy area in Ha Giang province, which is primarily known for its northeast loop through the Dong Van Geopark and Meo Vac.

In this guide, we’ll provide you with all the information you need to plan and make the most of your visit to this region, which will undoubtedly leave you with unforgettable memories.

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How to go to Hoang Su Phi ?

Add Hoang Su Phi in your itinerary

Due to its remote location and the difficulty of access, visiting Hoang Su Phi is recommended for those who want to take their time exploring Northern Vietnam. If you are planning a longer trip of 10 to 12 days in the north, it is quite possible to include Hoang Su Phi in your itinerary. This journey could, for example, cover the following destinations: Hanoi, Sapa, Bac Ha, Hoang Su Phi, the Dong Van Karst Plateau, Halong Bay, and Ninh Binh.

Rice fields from above. Photo : Quang Nguyen Vinh (Pixabay stock)

Book a tour from Hanoi

It is also possible to consider visiting Hoang Su Phi as an excursion from Hanoi. Given the distances involved, we recommend planning at least 5 days and 4 nights (allowing for 2 days of transport) to get a good overview of the region. You could then travel from family to family for a week of trekking. This is also what our friends from Freelensers blog did; they went without a French-speaking guide. We arranged for a local guide who organized everything on site. Depending on your budget, different options are available.

From you hotel in Hoang Su Phi

A third option is to book accommodation on-site (see below for a list) and do a two-day trek, for example, around your lodging. Most eco-lodges in the region have created one- or two-day circuits in the surrounding areas to allow their guests to explore the vicinity. However, be aware that local guides will not speak French or English. It will be a complete immersion with limited communication possibilities (although Google Translate can help…).

The adventure way : a motorbike trip

Finally, it is possible to rent a motorcycle in Sapa and then visit the Hoang Su Phi district. This is what the blogger Brice did, and it took him 9 days. However, be cautious as the roads can be in very poor condition and/or under construction, which will slow you down. Keep in mind: 1) Riding a motorcycle in the mountains is very tiring; 2) Plan your routes carefully to avoid riding at night, for example.

Hoang Su Phi landscape. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

Best time for visiting Hoang Su Phi

In Hoang Su Phi, as in all the mountainous regions of Northern Vietnam, there is only one rice harvest per year, which takes place in October. Therefore, if you want to see the rice fields in their most beautiful golden color, just before the harvest, you should visit in early October.

The other period that will delight photographers is when the rice fields are flooded, which usually occurs at the end of May or early June in Hoang Su Phi.

In general, whether for the weather or the landscapes, the best season to visit Hoang Su Phi is from late May to October.

Harvesting time in Hoang Su Phi. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

Places to discover in Hoang Su Phi

As you can see, Hoang Su Phi is primarily known for its magnificent terraced rice fields. Below, we have listed the best places to hike and admire these masterpieces created by ethnic minorities.

Ban Luoc

Located just 12 kilometers south of Vinh Quang, the main town of Hoang Su Phi district, Ban Luoc is a commune nestled in the heart of the “national landscape area of terraced fields” in Hoang Su Phi and home to the largest area of rice terraces in Vietnam – about 200 hectares. When visiting Ban Luoc, you can also see the beautiful traditional wooden stilt houses of the Dao and Tay ethnic groups hidden in the mountains. The deeper you venture into the villages, the more you will feel the majesty of Ban Luoc’s landscapes.

Some homestays: Nam Ly Retreat, La Maison de Cuong

Ban Phung

The village of Phung is located near the Chinese border, just 30 kilometers north of Vinh Quang. By car or motorcycle, it takes about 1.5 hours to get there, following a beautiful mountainous road. The slope is quite steep as Phung is home to some of the highest rice terraces in the district, alongside Ban Luoc.

Some homestays: Trong Phu, Chi Tai, Lan Co La Chi

Dining in a homestay, Hoang Su Phi. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

Ho Thau

The commune of Ho Thau is located southwest of Vinh Quang, also about thirty kilometers from the town and twenty kilometers from the township of Nam Dich. In Ho Thau, the Red Dao people live and are known for planting forested areas around their fields to protect them from landslides.

Some homestays: May Chieu Lau Thi, Ho Thau Eco Village, Chan Mui

Thong Nguyen

This commune is at a slightly lower altitude than the others and is located on the route back to Hanoi. It is situated to the south, about thirty kilometers from Vinh Quang. A river runs through it, creating a beautiful, lush landscape. This area also hosts several eco-lodges that are a bit more upscale than the homestays, including Hoang Su Phi Ecolodge and our favorite, Pan Hou Village, created by Michel, a Frenchman who arrived in Vietnam in the mid-1990s.

Some homestays: Ta Quyen, Minh Phuc, Hill Home.

Landscape of Thong Nguyen, Hoang Su Phi. Photo : Mathieu Arnaudet

Best destination in Hoang Su Phi on map.

Must visit markets

The most iconic ethnic markets are found in districts other than Hoang Su Phi (such as Bac Ha, Si Ma Cai, or Coc Pai). However, if you arrive in the town of Vinh Quang on a Saturday evening, for example, we recommend staying until Sunday morning, as the market is held there every week at the foot of Tay Con Linh mountain, the highest in the district.

The market is a meeting place for different ethnic minorities in the region, such as the Tay, Nung, Dao, H’mong, and others. This market takes place on both sides of the road from early morning until noon. It is very beautiful and authentic because it still retains its original and cultural aspects, serving not only as a commercial venue but also as a meeting place for the ethnic groups

Climbing mountains in the region

Tay Con Linh

Tay Con Linh is located along the Chay River mountain range. Straddling the districts of Hoang Su Phi and Vi Xuyen, its summit is 46 km from the city of Ha Giang, the capital of the eponymous province. The mountain reaches an elevation of 2,428 meters and is considered sacred by the La Chi ethnic community.

Summit of Tay Con Linh

Chieu Lau Thi

Chieu Lau Thi (also known as Kieu Lieu Ti), which means “Nine Steps,” is the second highest mountain in Ha Giang at an altitude of 2,402 meters. The mountain is located in the hamlets of Tan Minh and Chien Thang, in the commune of Ho Thau, district of Hoang Su Phi, province of Ha Giang. At the foot of Chieu Lau Thi mountain, there are 13 communes.

View from Chieu Lau Thi. Photo : Giap Van Hai.

Best accommodation ?

We have listed above some homestay names based on the area visited in Hoang Su Phi. Today, there are a few so-called ecolodges in the district that combine comfort and authenticity. For example, we can mention Riz d’Or, Hoang Su Phi Ecolodge, and our favorite: Panhou Village. From these accommodations, you can hike to discover the villages and the magnificent terraced rice fields.