Every year in Vietnam, at the beginning of the third lunar month, a festival takes place in Phu Day, near Nam Dinh. On this occasion, visitors come to honor and celebrate Princess Liễu Hạnh, one of the most revered figures in the Mother Goddess religion.
Why is this festival important for Vietnamese culture? What does it reveal about spirituality in Vietnam?
This article will tell you more about the worship of Mother Goddesses in Vietnam, of which the Phu Day Festival is the most significant celebration.
Introduction to the Worship of Mother Goddesses
Over the centuries, and before the arrival of the major philosophical and religious currents—Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism—the Vietnamese people developed deep-rooted beliefs that remain embedded in popular culture to this day.
For the Vietnamese people, the various elements of nature—sun, moon, mountains, rivers, and so on—are considered “mothers” with the power to influence the earthly world. Each mother is regarded as a goddess, deserving a dedicated cult and veneration.
In a study conducted in the 1980s, Vietnamese researchers attempted to count the number of goddesses who receive veneration… and they arrived at a total of 75!
Out of these diverse Eastern beliefs arose a true religion, called the “Mother Goddess Worship.”
This religion acquired its first characteristics during the first Chinese domination of Vietnam, a period during which Taoism was introduced and taught.
Thus, around the year 1000, a pantheon of deities emerged, presided over by the Taoist figure of the Jade Emperor.
Four goddesses sit at the very top of this pantheon, each presiding over a “palace” (tu phu): Heaven (Thien Phu), Earth (Dia Phu), Water (Thoai Phu), and Forests and Mountains (Nhac Phu). Among these goddesses, one rules over the others: the Mother of Heaven (Mau Thuong Thien), personified by Lieu Hanh, the daughter of the Jade Emperor, who, according to legend, incarnated on Earth as a little girl in the 16th century.
Women praying at Lieu Hanh’s tomb, Phu Day Festival, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
Practicing the worship of the Mother Goddess means seeking guidance in the present world, rather than praying for salvation in another. Vietnamese wisdom and spirituality are thus rooted in immanence, not transcendence.
While the worship had been banned following the rise of the communist regime, the liberalization policies—both economic and cultural—beginning in the 1980s allowed it to revive and flourish. Today, religious ceremonies and festivals are numerous, which led UNESCO in 2016 to recognize the “Tho Mâu Tam Phu” (the worship of the Mother Goddesses) as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Many festivals emerged, celebrating different goddesses. The most important of these is the Phu Dây Festival, which honors the goddess Lieu Hanh, the most significant figure in the pantheon of spirits.
The Celebration of Princess Lieu Hanh at Phu Day
The First Mother Goddess (Mâu Thuong Thiên) is celebrated every year at the beginning of the 3rd lunar month in the commune of Kim Thai, Nam Dinh province. In this commune, no fewer than 21 buildings make up what is called the Phu Dây Temple complex. Among these buildings, three are specifically linked to the worship of the goddess Liêu Hanh: the Tiên Huong Temple (the main temple), the Vân Cat Temple, and the Princess Liêu Hanh Sanctuary. It is in these temples that each year thousands of people—mostly women—come to pay homage to the Goddess.
In these temples, the bust of Mâu Thuong Thiên is always positioned at the center, surrounded by the other mother goddesses: Mâu Thuong Ngàn (“the Second Mother”), who oversees the forests and mountains—the primary habitat of various ethnic minorities—and Mâu Thoai (“the Third Mother”), who takes care of rivers and waters, essential for rice cultivation and fishing.
Mâu Thuong Thiên, for her part, governs the heavens and controls natural phenomena such as clouds and rain, wind and storms, thunder and lightning. The color red is associated with this deity.
Shaman acting as an intermediary with the Goddess Lieu Hanh, Phu Day Festival, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
For several days, the Vietnamese come to practice the worship of the Mother Goddess. The practice of this cult is highly theatrical: it is called hầu đồng.
Spiritual Guides and Shamans in Vietnam during the Hầu Đồng Ceremony
To be guided by the deities, humans must first establish a connection with them.
Only certain individuals have the ability to serve as a bridge between the spirits and humans. These are the shamans (“ba dong”), men or women, who at some point in their lives have experienced a revelation—a calling or a connection—with one of the figures of the spirit pantheon.
In order to be able to act as a mediator, they must organize a “palace initiation ceremony,” which officially installs them before the spirit in question. This ceremony is very costly and is therefore, by definition, reserved for those who have the means to afford this initiation. At the same time, it ensures wealth and prosperity, since the “profession” of a ba dong is very well compensated…
Preparation of a Ba Dong Ceremony, Phu Day Festival, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
The “hâu dông” ceremony is a true spectacle in which the ba dong, assisted by musicians (cung van) and offering attendants (hâu dâng), performs 36 scenes (gia dông), each dedicated to a specific deity. Each scene features its own unique dances and costumes. Possession (or trance) can occur during these performances, but it is actually very rare—especially during rituals honoring the goddess Lieu Hanh, who, for some, is considered too powerful to make direct contact with humans. In fact, the rituals and the spectacle of the scenes hold far more importance than establishing a direct connection with the spirits.
Photo report of the festivities
Discover below more photos taken during the Phu Day Festival in April 2018.
This will allow you to better visualize the Mother Goddess cult in Vietnamese culture!
Temple at the entrance of the Festival, Phu Day, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
Joss papers at the entrance of the main Temple, Phu Day, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
Female “ba dong” during a spiritual performance at the Phu Day Festival, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
Woman visiting the Festival with a monk from her village praying, Phu Day, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
Person cleansing themselves of sins committed in a previous life that still haunt them in the present one, Phu Day, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
Woman carrying offerings at the Phu Day Festival, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
Women bringing offerings at the Phu Day Festival site, Nam Dinh, Vietnam
For more information :
- Phu Day Festival near Nam Dinh, held every year at the beginning of the 3rd lunar month (usually in early April);
- The “4 Palaces” show in Hanoi, performed weekly, depicts a hâu dông ceremony. This performance can be included as part of a stay in the Vietnamese capital;
- The anthropologist Monique Sélim’s book: Pouvoirs et Marché au Vietnam. Tome 2 : Les morts et l’État, Éditions L’Harmattan, 2003. A very good book that examines how ancestral beliefs are still used today in a country transitioning toward a capitalist system.
