Bac Son is a rural district in Lạng Sơn province, located in the northeastern region of Vietnam, about 160 km northeast of Hanoi.
The valley’s rice fields, surrounded by mountains, create a stunning landscape whose full beauty can truly be appreciated after climbing to the top of Na Lay Mountain, situated right next to the rice fields.
The charm of the area also comes from the village of Quynh Son—where you will likely stay—renowned for making the traditional roof tiles used on Tay ethnic houses.
Here is all the information you need to prepare your stay in the valley.
Why visit Bac Son?
Bac Son Valley is a little gem that we highly recommend to travelers. Here are three main reasons to go there:
An off-the-beaten-path destination
This is becoming increasingly rare in Vietnam—a country with a relatively small area—but Bac Son remains relatively untouched (like much of northeastern Vietnam). It is therefore a wonderful off-the-beaten-path destination that allows you to experience authentic life with the local population. We strongly recommend spending a night with a Tay family. Here, you won’t find luxury resorts or poorly planned hotels—only a few homestays run by villagers themselves. Since the locals speak neither English nor French, it is advisable to visit with a guide, who will help you communicate with your host family and, more generally, with people in the region.
The Beauty of the Landscapes
Bac Son is a vast valley surrounded by numerous mountains, creating a truly spectacular landscape. Naturally, it is from the top of Na Lay Mountain that one can fully appreciate the immensity and beauty of the valley. However, as we will see later, this viewpoint is well-earned! For those unable to reach this elevated perspective, the valley remains breathtaking, notably thanks to the rice fields cultivated by local residents. In short, Bac Son offers a condensed version of northern Vietnam’s landscapes, with its karst peaks and river winding through the rice paddies.
Bac Son Valley at sunrise. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
Discovering an ancestral craft
Within the valley lies the village of Quynh Son, renowned for its handmade roof tiles. These tiles are crafted through a meticulous process using clay from the rice fields. The clay pieces are sprinkled with water for 20 days to make them more pliable and elastic. Artisans then place the clay into molds to create curved tiles, which are left in the sun for one to two months before being fired in a kiln for ten days. The finished tile is extremely hard and does not break easily at all! The villagers proudly state that their roofs have remained intact for over 70 years.
Around 30 families in Quynh Son commune produce tiles for commercial purposes.
The large chimneys used to fire the tiles, Bac Son. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
How to get there?
The most comfortable option is, of course, by car. You would first take the expressway to Thai Nguyen, then the mountain road to Bac Son. The last 50 kilometers before reaching the valley are truly spectacular.
For those who prefer taking the bus, you can go to the bus stations at My Dinh, Gia Lam, or Luong Yen in Hanoi. Many buses run from Hanoi to Lang Son, with fares ranging from 100,000 VND to 170,000 VND per person, depending on the bus quality and schedule. Once you arrive at Lang Son bus station, Bac Son is still about 60 kilometers away. From there, you can take a taxi or motorbike taxi to reach the valley. Bac Son remains very poorly served by public transport, which also explains why it is still rarely visited.
Where to stay in Bac Son?
Homestays in Bac Son are mostly concentrated in the village of Quỳnh Sơn. The village has become a hub for community-based tourism, so several families welcome guests, either on mattresses upstairs in their homes or in private rooms on the ground floor. Mr. Duong Cong (01276353656) and Mr. Duong Cong Chai (0984026836) both work with Quỳnh Sơn Cultural Village and can help arrange accommodations.
Here is a list of homestays with their contacts. Personally, we stayed at the first one on this list, Trong Dung, a very kind couple who set up rooms downstairs for those who prefer a bit more privacy.
Entrance of the Trong Dung homestay, Bac Son. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
Best times to visit Bac Son
The villagers of Bac Son harvest rice twice a year: once in July and again from late October to early November. If you want to see both stunning landscapes and the locals at work, this is the time to visit the valley. The period when the rice paddies are filled with water, in May and June, is also very photogenic, as you can see the surrounding mountains reflected in the fields.
Things to do in Bac Son
Walk through Quỳnh Sơn Village
The first activity we recommend after settling into your homestay is to take a stroll through Quỳnh Sơn, a beautiful village. You can admire traditional houses topped with locally made tiles and may also encounter centuries-old trees standing proudly in the village square. The Tay people, who practice animism, have great respect for nature, believing it protects them. In fact, cutting trees is prohibited on the surrounding mountains, as they serve as natural barriers against the frequent landslides.
Stroll in Quỳnh Sơn Village, Bac Son. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
On the other side of the main street running through the valley, you’ll find the rice fields. There’s nothing more beautiful than watching the sunset over the mountains in the distance—a perfect way to end the day.
Sunset in Bac Son, Vietnam. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
Discovering tile making
While walking around, you’ll notice large round kilns by the roadside. This is where the famous Quỳnh Sơn tiles are fired! With your guide, you can ask about the tile-making process and even try shaping a few yourself.
Tile making in Bac Son. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
Climbing to the Top of Na Lay Mountain
This is, of course, the main activity during your stay in Bac Son! Embark on the ascent of Na Lay Mountain for breathtaking views of the entire valley. With its summit at about 600 meters above sea level, Na Lay overlooks the whole valley. But be warned: only those in good physical condition can tackle the thousands of steps leading to the top. The path is steep and will deter many visitors. Nevertheless, even if you don’t reach the summit, there’s a very nice viewpoint halfway up that will satisfy many.
View during the ascent of Na Lay Mountain. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
For those who reach the summit, it’s a moment of pure reward, with a 360-degree view of the entire valley
View from the top of Na Lay Mountain. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
We recommend starting the climb around 4 PM. This way, you can take your time and reach the top by 5 PM, just in time to admire the sunset. Sunrise, amid the clouds, is also magical, and for those who wish, it is possible to camp on the platform overnight. This avoids a night-time climb in the dark and allows for a more relaxed experience.Nous vous conseillons de commencer l’ascension vers 16h. Comme cela, vous pourrez prendre votre temps et arriver en haut vers 17h. Il ne restera plus qu’à admirer le soleil couchant. Le lever du soleil, au milieu des nuages, est aussi magique et pour celles et ceux qui le veulent, il est possible de rester dormir en posant sa tente sur la plateforme. Cela évite ainsi un levé dans la nuit et une ascension périlleuse dans l’obscurité.
Platform at the top of Na Lay Mountain. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
Relax at Dang Mo Waterfall
Located along National Road 279, 30 minutes (20 kilometers) from the Bac Son Valley, Dang Mo Waterfall is a peaceful stop. Recently, the site has been developed and entrance costs 50,000 VND per person (about 2 euros). It is usually quiet, making it an ideal spot for a picnic, with the gentle sound of flowing water as your accompaniment. There is also a restaurant on-site if you prefer.
The beautiful Dang Mo Waterfall. Photo credit: Mathieu Arnaudet
You now have all the information needed to enjoy a great time in the Bac Son Valley!
